Advice

<p class="font_8">Thinking about extending your home? Whether you need more space, want to rework your layout, or simply feel your house no longer fits how you live, starting a home extension project can be exciting, but also a little overwhelming.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Here’s a warm, practical guide to help you get started on the right foot.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>STEP ONE: GET CLEAR ON WHY YOU'RE DOING THIS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Before diving into design ideas or calling builders for quotes, take a moment to ask yourself: What’s the real reason I want to extend?</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Do you need more space because of a growing family?<br>
• Are you craving better flow and light in your kitchen/living area?<br>
• Do you want to stay put but make your home feel “new”?</p>
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<p class="font_8">Understanding your core motivation helps you stay grounded through all the decisions that come later. A great design starts with knowing what matters most.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>STEP TWO: THINK FUNCTION FIRST, STYLE SECOND</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Pinterest and Instagram are full of stunning spaces, but your home needs to work for you. Before you get caught up in rooflines, window shapes or paint colours, focus on how the space should function.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Some good prompts:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• What’s currently not working in your home?<br>
• When do you feel frustrated by the layout or flow?<br>
• Where do you need more light, warmth, or storage?</p>
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<p class="font_8">A skilled architectural designer will translate these insights into a layout that works beautifully and feels good to live in. Style will follow naturally once the bones are right.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>STEP THREE: BE REALISTIC ABOUT BUDGET</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">A lot of disappointment in extension projects comes from mismatched expectations around cost. It’s much better to work with a rough budget early on, even if it changes later.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Typical 2025 ballpark figures:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Build cost: £1,700 – £3,000 per m² (depending on spec)<br>
• Kitchen fit-out: £15,000 – £30,000+<br>
• Professional fees and approvals: 10–18% of build cost</p>
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<p class="font_8">Don’t forget to allow for things like glazing, bathrooms, landscaping, and finishes – not just bricks and mortar.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Tip: If you don’t know your budget, try working backwards. How much would you feel comfortable investing overall?</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>STEP FOUR: DON’T WORRY IF YOU DON’T HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS YET</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Lots of clients feel unsure about when to get in touch. They might say:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• “We’re not ready yet, we haven’t figured it all out.”<br>
• “We don’t want to waste anyone’s time.”<br>
• “We just need a builder really, don’t we?”</p>
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<p class="font_8">Here’s the truth: The earlier you speak to an architect or architectural designer, the better. We’ll help you shape your brief, clarify your goals, and avoid design decisions that could cost you more later.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>STEP FIVE: UNDERSTAND WHAT COMES FIRST</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Every extension project has its own route, but here’s a typical early-stage journey:</p>
<ol class="font_8">
<li><p class="font_8">Initial chat and consultation – We listen to your ideas and give honest early advice</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Briefing and quote – We shape a scope of work and provide a fixed-fee quote</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Survey and design – We measure up, develop concepts, and work with you on the layout</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Planning or permitted development checks – We advise on what permissions are needed</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Technical design and regulations – This stage comes later, once the layout is locked in</p></li>
</ol>
<p class="font_8">Not sure if you need planning permission? We’ll advise you, and we often apply for Certificates of Lawfulness even when formal planning isn’t required.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>COMMON EARLY PITFALLS TO AVOID</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">• Jumping straight to a builder without clear plans or approvals<br>
• Not sharing your budget because you’re worried it’ll limit creativity (it won’t – it helps)<br>
• Overthinking the final look before working out how the space should work<br>
• Assuming it’s all about square metres – great design is about flow, light and feel, not just size</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>FINAL THOUGHTS: START WITH CONVERSATION, NOT COMMITMENT</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">A good first step is simply having a conversation. At Angus Design, we offer friendly, no-pressure consultations to help you understand what’s possible, what it might cost, and what to expect from the process.</p>
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<p class="font_8">If you’re thinking about a home extension, even if you’re just gathering ideas, we’d love to hear from you. It’s never too early to get professional advice.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><a href="https://www.angusdesign.co.uk/contact-9"><u>→ Contact us to arrange an initial consultation</u></a></p>

Where to Start with Your Home Extension

Starting a home extension can feel exciting but overwhelming. Here’s a simple, practical guide to help you plan with clarity, avoid early mistakes, and set your project up for success.

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<p class="font_8">A     COMPLETE CLIENT   BRIEF</p>
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<p class="font_8">To begin, we’ll   ask you to complete our “Client Brief” document. This helps us understand   what you’re hoping to achieve, gather essential information about your   property, and guide you to start thinking more strategically about your goals   and priorities.</p>
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<p class="font_8">B     PREPARATION</p>
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<p class="font_8">Once we receive   your completed brief, we’ll carry out initial desktop research and   preparations. This ensures we arrive at your initial consultation fully   informed and ready to make our time together as valuable as possible.</p>
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<p class="font_8">C     INITIAL   CONSULTATION</p>
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<p class="font_8">We will visit   your home to discuss your ideas, aspirations, and overall vision. Together   we’ll refine your project brief so we can provide you with a tailored quote.   We’ll also outline the expected project stages, timeline, and identify any   likely permissions, approvals or specialist consultants you may need.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>Please note:</strong> At this stage, we   avoid jumping into specific design solutions. Instead, we take a step back to   understand the project holistically, allowing us to offer more thoughtful,   strategic advice.</p>
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<p class="font_8">D    PRODUCE QUOTE</p>
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<p class="font_8">Following our   visit, we’ll send you a clear, tailored quote outlining our services, scope   and fees. You’ll also receive our Project Guide which explains typical   project stages and other services you may need.</p>
<p class="font_8">If you’re happy   to proceed, we’ll move to the next step. If not, there’s no obligation – we   wish you well and hope we can help in the future.</p>
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<p class="font_8">E     ISSUE CONTRACT</p>
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<p class="font_8">We’ll send you   our standard appointment documents for review. These include details of our   services, professional insurance, and our terms for payment and cancellation.</p>
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<p class="font_8">F     START YOUR   PROJECT</p>
<p class="font_8">Once agreed,   we’ll begin the design stages outlined in your quote. This usually starts by   arranging a measured survey, the essential base for all design work to   follow.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Thank you for reading, we look forward to receiving your completed brief - James</p>

How do I get a quote from Angus Design?

Find out how to begin your project with Angus Design - from completing your Client Brief and arranging an initial consultation to receiving your tailored quote and starting design work.

<p class="font_8">One of the first things we’re often asked is, “What’s it going to cost?” And while the answer depends on lots of factors, from your finish level to where you live, we can offer a realistic starting point.</p>
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<p class="font_8">This article will help you understand what makes up the cost of an extension, where budgets often go off track, and how to shape your project around what you can afford.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>BUILD COSTS: THE BASICS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">The most useful place to start is the cost per square metre. This gives a broad idea of what your main building shell will cost before you start adding kitchens, bathrooms, or specialist finishes.</p>
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<p class="font_8">As a rough guide for 2025:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• £1,700–£2,200/m² – Cost-effective local builder, simpler finishes, minimal complexity<br>
• £2,200–£2,600/m² – Mid-range finish with some bespoke elements<br>
• £2,600–£3,000+/m² – High-end detailing, larger glazing, or more complex construction</p>
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<p class="font_8">This assumes you're working with a competent builder, using standard materials, and building to current regulations. It doesn’t include VAT (if your builder is VAT registered), professional fees, or any reconfiguration to the rest of your home.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHAT ELSE ADDS TO THE COST?</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Build cost is just the beginning. Here are other common elements to allow for:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Kitchen fit-out: £15,000 – £30,000+<br>
• Bathroom fit-out: £3,000 – £6,000+<br>
• Glazed doors (bifold/sliding): £1,500+ per metre (installed)<br>
• Rooflights: £500 – £2,000+ each<br>
• Built-in joinery & finishes: Varies widely – bespoke units, panelling, lighting, flooring<br>
• Landscaping: Often overlooked but can make a huge difference<br>
• Professional & application fees: 10–18% of build cost (including architectural, structural, planning and Building Regs fees)</p>
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<p class="font_8">Also consider things like waste removal, temporary roofing, utility upgrades, or new drainage — they can all add to the total.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHERE COSTS START TO CLIMB</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Some of the most common budget pitfalls we see:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Choosing layout before knowing your budget – Design decisions should be guided by what you can afford, not just what you dream of<br>
• Changing the spec mid-project – Switching to high-end finishes late on is one of the easiest ways to blow your budget<br>
• Not allowing a contingency – We recommend 10–15% extra for unexpected costs, especially on older properties<br>
• Skipping early professional advice – Making the wrong assumptions about planning, structure, or materials can lead to costly redesigns<br>
• Choosing the wrong Architect – We often pick up the pieces where clients have had false starts with other design practices</p>
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<p class="font_8">One client we worked with originally planned a 50m² extension at £1,800/m². Once they added bespoke kitchen joinery, large format glazing, and zinc roofing, the cost rose closer to £2,800/m². A smart redesign helped trim costs without compromising the space they needed.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WAYS TO STAY IN CONTROL</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">• Start with a realistic ballpark – It’s much easier to scale back than to stretch too thin<br>
• Be clear on your priorities – Are you investing in space, finishes, or long-term flexibility?<br>
• Work with your architect – We’ll help you spot what’s driving cost and where to adjust<br>
• Use a fixed-fee design process – This keeps professional costs transparent and manageable<br>
• Get early builder input – We often recommend a cost review at concept stage, especially for larger or more ambitious projects</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>SHOULD I PHASE THE WORK?</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">In some cases, yes — especially if your budget won’t stretch to everything in one go.</p>
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<p class="font_8">For example, we might:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Design a kitchen extension now, with future provision for a loft conversion<br>
• Focus on key living spaces first, leaving finishes or landscaping for later<br>
• Build structural openings now and complete internal layouts in stages</p>
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<p class="font_8">But phasing only works well with good planning. Poorly sequenced works can end up costing more.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>CLOSING THOUGHTS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Knowing what your extension might cost isn’t about locking yourself into fixed numbers — it’s about designing with your eyes open. With the right guidance and clear priorities, most budgets can be made to work.</p>
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<p class="font_8">If you’re thinking about extending and want early cost advice, get in touch for a free consultation or see our Getting Started Guide for more details on how we help clients plan smarter.</p>

How Much Will My Extension Cost?

Understand the real costs of a home extension in 2025, from build rates to hidden extras, and learn how to plan your budget to avoid common pitfalls.

<p class="font_8">If you’re planning a home extension, one of the first questions that comes up is: “Do I need planning permission for this?” The answer is... it depends.</p>
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<p class="font_8">In this article, we’ll walk you through what does and doesn’t need permission, what Permitted Development actually means, and the one document we always recommend applying for, even if full planning isn’t required.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>UNDERSTANDING PERMITTED DEVELOPMENT</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Some smaller home extensions don’t need planning permission because they fall under Permitted Development Rights. These are national rules that allow certain types of work without the need for a full planning application.</p>
<p class="font_8">To qualify, your project needs to meet very specific limits and conditions. These cover things like:</p>
<p class="font_8">• The overall size and height of the extension<br>
• Where it sits in relation to your existing home<br>
• The distance from boundaries<br>
• How much garden space is retained<br>
• The materials used</p>
<p class="font_8">For example: A single-storey rear extension on a typical semi-detached house might not need planning, as long as it doesn’t project more than 3 metres from the rear wall and stays within height limits.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHEN PERMITTED DEVELOPMENT DOESN’T APPLY</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Even if your extension is quite modest, you’ll still need Householder Planning Permission if:</p>
<p class="font_8">• Your home is in a Conservation Area, National Park, or Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB)<br>
• You’re extending to the side, adding height, or wrapping around corners<br>
• You’re planning a two-storey extension, large loft conversion, or significant alterations to the roof<br>
• You want to build a new annexe, detached structure, or change the use of the space</p>
<p class="font_8">And if your property has already been extended in the past, you may have used up some of your Permitted Development rights.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHAT IS A CERTIFICATE OF LAWFULNESS?</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Even if your project qualifies as Permitted Development, we strongly recommend applying for a Certificate of Lawfulness before you begin.</p>
<p class="font_8">This is a formal document from the council confirming that your extension meets the rules. It’s not the same as planning permission, but it gives you legal certainty – and it can be a lifesaver when selling your home.</p>
<p class="font_8">We’ve seen cases where a project was technically permitted, but the lack of a certificate caused delays and triggered legal wrangling during a house sale. It’s not worth the risk.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>THE PLANNING ROUTE WE RECOMMEND MOST</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">As a practice, we always start with a site-specific review to advise whether full permission is needed. If there’s any doubt, we’ll often suggest a Certificate of Lawfulness application as the safest way forward.</p>
<p class="font_8">In many cases, we’ll draw up your extension plans to meet PD rules where possible, but we’ll also talk through the trade-offs. Sometimes the flexibility and long-term value of a full planning application are worth the extra time and fee.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>REAL-WORLD EXAMPLES</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">A recent client in a Conservation Area wanted to extend 2.5 metres to the rear. Even though the size was modest, we needed to go through a Householder Planning Application because the area had additional restrictions.</p>
<p class="font_8">Another client had a detached 1970s bungalow outside any designated area. We were able to add a generous rear extension with rooflights and large glazed doors – all under Permitted Development, with a Certificate of Lawfulness to back it up.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>COMMON PLANNING MISCONCEPTIONS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">• “It’s at the back of the house, so it’s fine.”<br>
Not always. Rear extensions still need to meet size, height, and boundary limits.</p>
<p class="font_8">• “My neighbour did something similar, so I can too.”<br>
Maybe – but every house has a unique planning history. Rights can differ between properties.</p>
<p class="font_8">• “If it’s internal work, I don’t need permission.”<br>
Internal layout changes don’t need planning, but they may still need Building Regulations approval.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>CLOSING THOUGHTS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Planning rules can be surprisingly complex, but with the right advice, they don’t need to be stressful. Whether your project needs planning permission or qualifies as Permitted Development, we’ll guide you through it step by step.</p>
<p class="font_8">If you’re unsure what approvals your extension needs, get in touch and we’ll help you make a clear, confident start.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><a href="https://www.angusdesign.co.uk/contact-9"><u>→ Contact us to arrange an initial consultation</u></a></p>

Do I Need Planning Permission for My Extension?

Not all extensions need planning permission. Learn how Permitted Development works, when you’ll need full permission, and why a Certificate of Lawfulness is worth getting.

<p class="font_8">When you’re planning a home extension or renovation, it can be hard to know exactly what an architectural designer does, and how much of the process they’ll support you with.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Is it just about drawing up plans? Are they the same as an architect? Do you really need one?</p>
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<p class="font_8">This article clears up the confusion and shows what we actually do, from first conversations to helping you get a builder on board.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WE START WITH YOUR BRIEF, EVEN IF IT’S STILL A BIT FOGGY</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Most clients don’t come to us with a fixed plan. They come with a need – more space, better flow, warmer rooms, or a future-proofed home – but they’re not quite sure how to get there.</p>
<p class="font_8">Our first job is to help you define your brief. That means:</p>
<p class="font_8">• Listening carefully to what’s not working in your home<br>
• Helping you prioritise your needs and wishes<br>
• Exploring layout options, design ideas, and long-term thinking<br>
• Talking honestly about budget, approvals, and practicality</p>
<p class="font_8">Good design starts by asking the right questions. That’s why we take time early on to understand your family, your site, and your future plans.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WE TRANSLATE YOUR IDEAS INTO A BUILDABLE DESIGN</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Once your brief is clear, we turn it into something concrete, usually starting with concept designs in 2D and 3D.</p>
<p class="font_8">Our design process includes:</p>
<p class="font_8">• Exploring different layouts and massing options<br>
• Working with your site’s constraints (light, views, access, levels)<br>
• Thinking about material choices and sustainability<br>
• Preparing clear drawings that you can understand and comment on</p>
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<p class="font_8">This isn’t just about making things look nice. It’s about making sure the space works for you, your family, and your builder.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WE GUIDE YOU THROUGH PLANNING PERMISSION OR PERMITTED DEVELOPMENT</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Once a design is agreed, we advise on what planning route is needed. This might include:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Householder Planning Permission<br>
• Certificate of Lawfulness (for Permitted Development)<br>
• Pre-application advice from the local authority<br>
• Design and Access Statements or Heritage Statements</p>
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<p class="font_8">We’ll manage the planning submission, liaise with the local authority, and keep you updated along the way.</p>
<p class="font_8">Planning can be a minefield. We’re here to make sure you go in well prepared and come out with the permissions you need.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WE PRODUCE TECHNICAL DRAWINGS FOR BUILDING REGULATIONS AND BUILDERS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">After planning, the next stage is technical design – detailed drawings and specifications that your builder and inspector will rely on.</p>
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<p class="font_8">We produce:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Building Regulations drawings and notes<br>
• Coordination with your structural engineer<br>
• Details for insulation, ventilation, drainage, and structure<br>
• Clear information for contractors to price and build from</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WE HELP YOU MOVE TOWARD CONSTRUCTION</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Most of our clients go on to work with a local builder or a design and build company to carry out the work.</p>
<p class="font_8">While we don’t usually manage the quoting process directly, we can point you in the right direction and provide clear drawings and documentation that builders can use to price the job accurately.</p>
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<p class="font_8">If questions come up during the build, we’re happy to support where needed.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WE’RE YOUR GUIDE THROUGH THE WHOLE PROCESS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">From early feasibility through to final drawings, an architectural designer is there to:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Turn your brief into a workable design<br>
• Help you make decisions with clarity and confidence<br>
• Liaise with planners, engineers, and inspectors<br>
• Set realistic expectations and keep things moving forward</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>HOW ARE WE DIFFERENT TO AN ARCHITECT?</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">The short answer is: not much.</p>
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<p class="font_8">As a Chartered Architectural Technologist, I am fully qualified and insured to offer design services for domestic projects of all sizes. While the title 'architect' is protected by law, it doesn’t mean that architects are more experienced or capable.</p>
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<p class="font_8">We have over 20 years of experience delivering extensions, conversions, and new homes across a wide range of property types. Our knowledge of construction, building regulations, and planning policy means you can trust us to deliver safe, buildable, and beautiful designs.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>CLOSING THOUGHTS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">An architectural designer isn’t just someone who draws what you ask for. We’re here to challenge, clarify, and shape your ideas into something better than you imagined, while helping you manage risk, cost, and approvals along the way.</p>
<p class="font_8">If you’re thinking about extending or improving your home and want friendly, professional guidance, get in touch.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><a href="https://www.angusdesign.co.uk/contact-9"><u>→ Contact us to arrange an initial consultation</u></a></p>

What Does an Architectural Designer Actually Do?

If you’re planning a home extension or renovation, understanding what an architectural designer does can save you stress, time, and money. Here’s how we guide you from first ideas through to build-ready plans.

<p class="font_8">We are often asked what our “typical fees” are and there’s no one-size-fits-all answer, because every project is different. Homes vary, briefs vary, and so do clients’ needs and expectations.</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">If you already know exactly what you want and can provide us with a clear brief, we can keep our service focused and your fees lower. If you’re less certain and would like us to explore design options with you, fees will reflect the extra time needed to make sure we get things right together.</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">All of our quotes are bespoke your project and are based on the time we expect the work to take. We do not charge as a percentage of the build cost. Instead, each stage is broken down and invoiced as it begins, giving you clarity and control at every step.</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">The guide below is here simply to give you an idea of what different types of projects might cost. Final fees are confirmed once we’ve received your brief and discussed your project in detail on site.</p>
<p class="font_8">We know design services are a big investment, but this is also the most important part of your project. A well-prepared plan sets you on the right path, helps avoid costly mistakes, and ensures your build runs more smoothly.</p>

What are your typical fees

We’re often asked what our “typical fees” are. The truth is, no two projects are the same. Our guide below shows example fees to help you understand what may be involved

<p class="font_8">Many homeowners ask whether they can convert their garage into a living room, office, or bedroom without needing planning permission. The good news is that in many cases, yes, you can, but there are important exceptions and regulations to be aware of.</p>
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<p class="font_8">This article outlines when planning permission is needed, what building regulations still apply, and some practical tips to help you get started.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHEN YOU DON’T NEED PLANNING PERMISSION</strong></p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">Most garage conversions fall under Permitted Development rights, which allow certain types of home alterations without a formal planning application. You are usually fine to proceed without planning permission if:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• The garage is part of your existing house (not detached)<br>
• You are converting the space into living accommodation for the same house (not a separate dwelling)<br>
• You are not significantly changing the external appearance (no new roof, extension, or front dormer)</p>
<p class="font_8">Examples of permitted conversions:</p>
<p class="font_8">• Converting an internal garage into a playroom or home office<br>
• Replacing a garage door with a window and brickwork to match the house<br>
• Adding insulation, a new floor, and electrics to make the space habitable</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">Always check that your Permitted Development rights have not been removed by your local authority, for example through an Article 4 Direction or planning condition.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHEN PLANNING PERMISSION IS NEEDED</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">You may need to submit a full planning application if any of the following apply:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• The garage is detached from the main house and you want to create a self-contained unit<br>
• You live in a conservation area, Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), or listed building<br>
• You want to raise the roof, extend the footprint, or change the use class<br>
• Your original planning permission restricted use of the garage for parking</p>
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<p class="font_8">If you are unsure, it is worth submitting a Lawful Development Certificate. This is not mandatory, but it provides formal confirmation that your conversion is lawful, which is useful for peace of mind and future resale.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>BUILDING REGULATIONS STILL APPLY</strong></p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">Even if you do not need planning permission, your garage conversion will almost certainly require Building Regulations approval. These ensure your new space is safe, energy efficient, and habitable.</p>
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<p class="font_8">Your design will need to comply with current rules covering:</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">• Thermal insulation (walls, floors, roof, and glazing)<br>
• Ventilation (trickle vents, extractors, background ventilation)<br>
• Foundations and damp-proofing<br>
• Structure and stability<br>
• Electrics, heating, and drainage (if relevant)<br>
• Fire safety, especially if the garage is integral</p>
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<p class="font_8">This is usually done through a Building Notice or Full Plans application, and it is something we can manage for you as part of the design process.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Before converting your garage, think carefully about:</p>
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<p class="font_8">• Parking requirements – if your council requires off-street parking, you may need to demonstrate how you will meet this<br>
• Ceiling heights – existing garages are often lower than habitable rooms<br>
• Access and layout – will the new room feel properly connected to the rest of your house?<br>
• Ventilation and natural light – Building Regulations require certain standards here</p>
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<p class="font_8">It is also worth checking your Title Deeds or Covenants, especially if your home is on a newer estate, as these can sometimes restrict how a garage can be used.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>SUMMARY</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">You can usually convert your garage into a living space without planning permission, but only if the conversion meets specific conditions. You will still need Building Regulations approval, and it is worth getting professional advice to make sure your plans are compliant and cost-effective.</p>
<p class="font_8">If you are thinking about converting your garage, get in touch for a free initial chat. We can help assess whether your conversion is permitted and guide you through the design and approvals process.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>DISCLAIMER</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">This article is provided as general guidance only and does not constitute legal or professional advice. Always seek tailored advice specific to your project or situation.</p>

Can I Convert My Garage into a Living Space Without Planning Permission?

Many garage conversions are possible without planning permission, but there are important exceptions and Building Regulations you must follow. Learn the key rules and steps.

<p class="font_8"><strong>Internal wall insulation</strong> (IWI) can make older homes warmer and more comfortable by reducing heat loss through external walls. It is most often used in solid-walled properties or where cavity walls cannot be insulated. This guide explains the main approaches, the risks to be aware of, and what we currently consider to be the most reliable solutions.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>WHY CONSIDER INTERNAL WALL INSULATION?</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">In homes with uninsulated walls, up to a third of heat can be lost directly outside. Adding insulation to the inner face reduces this loss, raises internal surface temperatures, and cuts down on condensation and mould. Unlike external wall insulation, which changes the outside appearance, IWI is fitted room by room on the inside.</p>
<p class="font_8">Sometimes the best results come from combining internal and external wall insulation, depending on the house and its exposure. We would be happy to advise you further on what will be the best solutions for your project.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>TYPES OF INSULATION</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>BREATHABLE (VAPOUR-OPEN) SYSTEMS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">These use natural materials such as <strong>wood fibre boards</strong>, cork, or calcium silicate. They allow moisture vapour to pass through, helping the wall to dry in both directions. This reduces the risk of damp and keeps embedded timbers safe.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>VAPOUR-CLOSED SYSTEMS</strong></p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">Typically <strong>foil-faced PIR or phenolic boards</strong>, often sold as insulated plasterboard. They give high thermal performance in a thin layer, but they are vapour-tight. If moisture enters behind the boards, it has nowhere to go, creating a risk of mould, damp staining, and rot in timbers.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>KEY RISKS TO AVOID</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>Moisture accumulation:</strong> Our greatest concern with foil-faced boards is condensation forming on the cold face of the insulation, or within the external wall, where it cannot dry. Over time this can damage masonry and accelerate rot in joists or rafters built into the wall.</p>
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<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Hidden mould:</strong> Any voids or gaps behind insulation can collect moist air, leading to unseen mould growth that can spread spores into the home.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Thermal bridging:</strong> Poor detailing around reveals and junctions can leave cold spots where condensation and mould form.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Signal loss:</strong> Foil facings can reduce mobile phone and Wi-Fi reception, effectively blocking radio signals.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Poor workmanship:</strong> Dot-and-dab fixing, cavities behind boards, or unsealed joints all increase the risk of failure.</p></li>
</ul>
<p class="font_8"><strong>BENEFITS OF BREATHABLE SYSTEMS</strong></p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">Breathable boards such as wood fibre are thicker for the same U-value, but they provide:</p>
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<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Moisture safety:</strong> Hygroscopic materials absorb and release vapour, keeping walls and timbers drier.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Improved comfort:</strong> They moderate humidity and temperature swings, making rooms feel more stable.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Sustainability:</strong> Made from renewable materials with lower embodied carbon.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8"><strong>Acoustics and fire:</strong> Dense fibre boards help with sound insulation and have good fire safety ratings.</p></li>
</ul>
<p class="font_8">Finding installers with relevant experience can sometimes be harder, as many do not like deviating from what they are used to. However, we often find that builders who have worked with wood fibre insulation sing its praises for ease of use and the quality of results.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>HOW MUCH INSULATION IS ENOUGH?</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8">Adding insulation quickly reduces heat loss, but benefits taper off as thickness increases. For example:</p>
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<li><p class="font_8">40 mm wood fibre can cut heat loss by around 65%</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">60 mm wood fibre improves this to about 75%</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">100–120 mm brings further gains, but the extra savings are relatively small</p></li>
</ul>
<p class="font_8">For most projects, <strong>40–60 mm of wood fibre</strong> strikes the best balance of performance, cost, and practicality.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>COMPARISON OF COMMON SYSTEMS</strong></p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>PIR board + plasterboard (vapour-closed):</strong><br>
Typical build-up: 50 mm PIR + 12 mm plasterboard<br>
U-value range on 220 mm solid brick wall: around 0.30–0.35 W/m²K<br>
Notes: Very thin solution, but carries a high risk of trapped moisture and loss of mobile phone signal.</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8"><strong>Wood fibre + lime plaster (breathable):</strong><br>
Typical build-up: 60 mm wood fibre + 10 mm lime plaster<br>
U-value range on 220 mm solid brick wall: around 0.45–0.50 W/m²K<br>
Notes: Safe and robust option that allows the wall to breathe. Thicker and more expensive than PIR, but far lower risk of moisture problems.</p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8"><strong>Wood fibre + plasterboard + breathable paint (hybrid):</strong><br>
Typical build-up: 60 mm wood fibre + 12 mm plasterboard<br>
U-value range on 220 mm solid brick wall: around 0.45–0.50 W/m²K<br>
Notes: Our current preferred balance for most homes. Offers the moisture safety of wood fibre combined with the practicality and cost benefits of a plasterboard finish.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>PRACTICAL POINTS</strong></p>
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<li><p class="font_8">IWI reduces room size slightly; allow for radiators, sockets, and skirtings to be adjusted.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Ensure walls are sound, dry, and repaired before installing.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Plan for ventilation improvements to keep indoor humidity under control.</p></li>
<li><p class="font_8">Seek installers who show a genuine understanding of your project rather than a one-size-fits-all mentality. The best results come from tradespeople who consider detailing and building health as much as insulation thickness.</p></li>
</ul>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>CONCLUSION</strong></p>
<p class="font_8"><br></p>
<p class="font_8">Internal wall insulation can greatly improve comfort in older homes, but only if the right system is chosen and carefully installed. While foil-faced PIR looks attractive on paper, the risks of hidden damp and timber decay make it unsuitable in most solid wall situations. From our experience, a build-up of <strong>40–60 mm wood fibre insulation finished with plasterboard and breathable paint</strong> provides the most reliable balance of performance, safety, and practicality for many domestic projects.</p>
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<p class="font_8"><strong>Disclaimer:</strong> This article is provided as general guidance only and does not constitute professional advice. Always seek tailored advice for your own project.</p>

A Homeowner’s Guide to Internal Wall Insulation (IWI)

Thinking about insulating your home? This guide explains everything you need to know about Internal Wall Insulation (IWI) — how it works, when to use it, and what to watch out for in older solid wall homes